My newest sewing pattern Olwen the unicorn is ready to buy!!
Olwen has a woollen mane, wings, cute sleeping eyes, a sewn in horn, and blush cheeks. Her arms and legs are sewn in so there are no tricky joints to sew. Read on for the tutorial with a photo of every step of the making…..
To buy the pattern tap the red Buy button below
Olwen the Unicorn sewing pattern
To strengthen your keepsakes / soft toys, give them a smooth appearance and stop them stretching when they are stuffed, I would recommend you always interface your fabric. To do this draw around each pattern piece onto the interfacing. Then cut these pattern pieces out with a margin around each piece. Iron them onto the reverse side of your fabric, then cut the pieces out neatly.
Pattern pieces tip
If you intend to make this pattern more than once, glue your pattern pieces on to thin cardboard (like pizza or cereal box cardboard) to create templates.
Extra info before you start
There is a 5cm and a one inch block on the page with the Back piece to check your pattern has printed out the correct size.
All seam allowances are included in the pattern pieces. The seam allowance is 5mm or ¼ “
Use a short stitch length, this prevents the stitches from showing or bursting when you stuff your unicorn
Ensure you start and finish every line of stitches with a few reverse stitches to secure
have a really welcoming and supportive Facebook group at Cwtch and Bloom Makers Club who can give you help and support as you sew. I would love for you to join if you haven’t already
When you draw/cut out the legs, draw / cut out 2 with the hole, one of which is reversed, these will be your inner leg pieces. Then draw / cut out 2 without the hole, one of which is reversed, these will be your outer leg pieces.
Sewing the body part 1
1 – Pin one of the unicorn’s back pieces to one of the unicorn’s front pieces, with the right sides of fabric together, down the side seam as marked by the dashed line. Do not pin around the semi-circular indentations that do not have a dashed line.
2 – Sew along the side seam, excluding the semi-circular indentations. Remove the pins. The oval hole that you have created is where you will attach the leg. Cut away the excess fabric from the top and bottom of the oval hole.
3 – Repeat this process for the other back piece and front piece. You have created 2 body side pieces
Sewing the Legs
1 – Mark the bottom of each leg piece with a small =, and check you have marked the hoof sides as A and B
Then pin the first of your hoof side pieces to a leg piece. Place A inline with the top of leg and B with the bottom of leg. Pin along the hoof joining seam, right sides of fabric together, then sew. Trim the excess fabric away from the hoof joining seam.
2 – Repeat for the other 3 leg pieces and 3 of the hoof side pieces.
– The technique to sew the unicorn’s legs to the body is very similar to that used to sew arms and legs into my bear patterns. I made a video to explain the process HERE
3 – Lay the first inner leg piece (ie one of the leg pieces with a hole) onto the leg hole of one of the body sides so the fabric is right side to right side, the front of the leg hole is over the front of the body hole and the back of the leg hole is over the back of the body hole. Line the seam line marks of the inner leg hole up with the side seam of the body side piece. Pin all around the hole and sew. Sew round slowly and carefully, staying an even 5mm / ¼” from the edge of the hole all the way around. Clip the curves, being careful not to snip through your line of stitching
4 – Repeat for the other inner leg and body piece
5 – Push each of the inner leg pieces through the hole in the body from the right side of the body through to the wrong side
6 – Lay your first outer leg / hoof side piece onto an inner leg / hoof side piece, with the fabric right side to right side and the bottom pieces marked = facing each other. Sew from A around to B, up the hoof side seam along the top of leg around and along the bottom of the leg and along the hoof side seam. Do not sew along the hoof base seam
7 – Do the same for the second leg / hoof side piece. Cut the excess fabric away from the seam by points A and B and clip the curve around the back of the leg
8 – Attach the hoof bases to the hoof sides one at a time. Make sure the hoof side fabric edge is exactly lined up with the hoof base fabric edge. Pin the top centre point of the hoof base to the hoof side seam at A (ie that follows on from the top of leg). Pin the bottom centre point of the hoof base to the hoof side seam at B (ie that follows on from the bottom of leg)
9 – Working out from these 2 pins, pin the hoof base to the hoof side fabric pinning from the base through to the hoof side all the way round at small intervals. If you have any leftover fabric remove a few pins and gently move the fabric around to fit
10 – Sew the hoof base to the hoof side with the hoof base fabric facing down onto your machine. Sew round slowly and carefully, staying an even 5mm / ¼” from the edge all the way around
11 – Take out all the pins and clip the curves, or use your pinking shears, all the way round the hoof base. Be careful not to snip through your stitching line. Repeat for the other leg’s hoof side / hoof base
Sewing the body part 2
1 – To get a neat join at the base of your unicorn’s body – nest the bottom of the 2 side seams where they are marked ‘base’ on the pattern pieces
Push a pin into the centre of the nested seams. Pin up the unicorn’s front seam from the base to C, and pin up the unicorn’s back seam to D. Sew from C to D
2 – Stitch a row of guide stitches from point E to F 5mm ¼” away from the raw edge on EACH of the 2 back pieces. These guide stitches are not sewing the 2 pieces together, they are a guide for when you stitch your unicorn closed after stuffing
3 – Snip the excess fabric away from the top of the side seams and the front seam at C
4 – Do not stitch from D to E. Turn your unicorn’s body so the fabric is right side out
1 – Pin one of the hoof sides to the arm along the hoof joining seam, right sides of fabric together. Place the hoof side so that A is inline with the top of arm and B with the bottom of arm. Sew along the hoof joining seam as shown by the dashed line. Trim the excess fabric away from the hoof joining seam
2 – Repeat for the other 3 arm pieces and remaining 3 hoof side pieces
3 – Sew guide stitches (exactly as you did for the 2 back pieces) on the bottom of each arm where they are marked ‘stuffing gap’.
4 – Lay your arms / hoof side pieces out in pairs with the right sides of fabric together
5 – Pin then sew from G down the top of arm seam and down the hoof side seam to A
6 – Leaving the stuffing gap open, pin along the bottom of arm seam, then sew from H down the bottom of arm seam, excluding the stuffing gap, and down the hoof side seam to B. Do the same for the second arm, and then cut the excess fabric away from the seams by points A and B
7 – Pin the top centre point of the hoof base to the hoof side seam at A (ie that follows on from the top of arm). Pin the bottom centre point of the hoof base to the hoof side seam at B (ie that follows on from the bottom of arm). Then sew the hoof bases to the hoof sides as you did for the legs
8 – Turn the arms through so the right side of fabric faces out. Tack the first arm onto the top of a back body piece so the top of the arm at G sits against the side seam. Make sure the arm is curving forwards ie towards the front central seam. Repeat for the second arm.
Sewing the head
1 – With the right sides of fabric together, pin the upper face to the lower face. Pin K to L and M to N, then pin and sew along the face seam from KL to MN. Trim the excess away from the seam allowance at each end and clip along the curve
2 – With the right sides of fabric together, pin the horn to the upper face along the horn seam.
Start by pinning O to P and then pin all along the horn seam until you can pin Q to R.
– if you hold and pin your fabrics so the upper face is nearest you and the horn away from you it makes it easier to guide the upper face fabric into the right position. And pinning specifically from OP to QR makes it easier to ease the 2 curves together. If you have any leftover fabric remove a few pins and gently move the fabric around to fit. Sew this seam with the horn flat against the machine to help ensure the face fabric doesn’t get puckered or caught in the seam. Snip excess fabric away all along the horn seam
3 – Lay the ears out into pairs with the right sides of fabric together. Pin then sew the first ear as shown by the dashed line from * to **. Cut the excess fabric away from the line of stitching and turn through. Repeat for the second ear
4 – Put a little stuffing in the top half of each ear, hold the stuffing in place with a couple of pins. Pin the first ear onto the neck between the two ear placement marks so that * is by * and ** is by **. The open edge of the ear fabric needs to be in line with the edge of the neck fabric, and the back of the ear needs to be against the neck fabric. Repeat for the second ear
5 – With the right sides of fabric together, pin the face to the neck along the face neck seam. Pin S to T and U to V. Sew from ST to UV. Snip the excess fabric away from ST and UV. Repeat steps 1 to 5 with the other face pieces, horn, ear and neck
1 – Create 9 bundles of wool. To make each bundle cut 4 pieces of wool 40cm / 16″ long. Lay the lengths of wool together. Tie the bundle in the centre
2 – Make a 5mm / ¼” wide strip of glue on one neck piece (as in the photo below). Make it on the right side of the fabric from the neck face seam at ST down to the end of mane line
3 – Lay the first bundle by ST, with the knot of the wool just above the raw edge of the fabric. Press the wool strands flat onto the glue. Pin or clip the bundle into place
4 – Then working from this first bundle to the end of mane line, lay 7 more bundles onto the glue strip. As you lay each bundle down, press the wool strands flat. If you get bumps at this stage the neck fabric won’t lay straight. If you have thick wool you may not need all the bundles, alternatively if you have thin wool you may need more
5 – Put a small amount of glue in front of ST and place the last bundle here
6 – Once the glue has dried, pin the 2 head and neck pieces together, with right sides of fabric facing, and sew from W to VU. Sew slowly and move the fabric as necessary to get a good shape to the head. DO NOT cut the knots away from the wool, they will hold the wool secure so it cannot be pulled out.
7 – Snip the excess fabric away from the seam allowance at VU
1 – Using the same technique and measurements as you used for the mane, create a large bundle of 10 strands of wool and tie them in the centre
2 – Place this bundle into the back seam so it rests on the top of the seam at D. The knot must be just above the raw edge of the fabric and the tail wool laying onto the right side of the fabric
3 – Pin the tail in position. You will sew it into the seam after attaching the head to the body
Attaching the head to the body
1 – Turn the unicorn’s body through so the right side of fabric is facing inwards. And turn your unicorn’s head so the right side of fabric is facing outwards. Tuck the head inside the body so that the fabrics are right sides together. Line up the central seam of the unicorn’s front with the central seam of the head. Pin UV of the face/neck to point C of the unicorn’s front. Then pin each of the open corners of the neck at X against the open corners of the Unicorn’s back at F
2 – Pin securely all the way along the neck seam. Stitch from FX to UVC to FX
3 – Check you have pinned the tail by D, then pin and sew the back closed from D to E, the tail will be sewn into place by D. Pin and sew the neck closed from W to X. You will be left with a gap, from E to F – this is your turning and stuffing hole
1 – Turn your unicorn through the stuffing hole, so that he or she is the right way out. Stuff the horn first using very small pieces of stuffing and push them in firmly using your stuffing tool. Then with little bits of stuffing approximately an inch across stuff the rest of the head, the legs and the body.
When you stuff the body sit your unicorn on a table and stuff downwards so that he or she sits up straight
2 – Once you have finished stuffing, stitch the turning hole closed with a ladder stitch. If you want a really firm unicorn, don’t sew up the closure immediately, wait 24 hours then add more stuffing before ladder stitching closed
3 – Stuff your unicorn’s arms. Stuff the hooves and the lower arm area firmly. Stuff more gently in the upper arm area towards the neck seam (if you stuff this upper arm too firmly it will cause the arms to stick out). Check both arms are stuffed evenly and then ladder stitch closed
Sewing the Eyes
1 – Pin the eye template to your unicorn’s face so the curve marked horn seam sits by the unicorn’s horn seam, and the edge of the template marked face neck seam sits along your unicorn’s face neck seam
2 – Push pins through the eyeline and lashes at the points shown by the dots on the template
3 – Pull the pinheads partly out of your unicorn’s face. Lift the paper up and push a new pin directly (not through the paper) into the unicorn’s face at exactly the point where the first pin entered the fabric, take out the first pin. Repeat one at a time for each of the pins so your unicorn’s eye is marked out by pins, and the paper is removed.
4 – Repeat for the other eye. Check that both eyes look even, and that your pins are in a nice neat curve, and the eyelashes are neatly spaced – adjust your pins a bit if necessary
5 – Cut 50cm / 20” of embroidery floss. Push your needle in behind the right ear and come out by the first pin of your unicorn’s right eye. Pull the needle through leaving a tail of around 10cm / 4” so you can tie off at the end. Stitch with back stitch along the pins that mark out the eye
6 – If you push your needle in and out of the entry points marked by the pins the eye embroidery will stay neat
7 – When complete, take the needle and embroidery floss to the point where you originally started behind the ear and tie to secure. Snip off the excess embroidery thread. Sew the other eye using the same technique
Sewing the Wings
1 – Lay your wings out in pairs, so one pair will be the inside (ie, facing your unicorn’s body) left wing and the outer (ie, facing away from the body) left wing, and one pair will be the inside and outer right wing
2 – Next iron the wing fleece onto the wrong side of the 2 inside wing pieces, or spray glue your batting / wadding on.
3 – Lay the 2 outer wing pieces onto the right side of the fabric of the inside wing pieces. Pin then sew as shown by the dashed line from Y to Z, leave the straight edge between Y to Z open. Sewing this seam with the fabric flat against the machine and the fleece uppermost, will prevent the fleece getting caught in your sewing machine’s feed dogs. Snip into each of the V shapes between the curves of the wings, and then trim the excess fabric away from the seam allowance all around the curves
4 – Turn each wing through the hole at YZ so the right side of the fabric faces out. Run your stuffing tool all the way around the inside of the wings to push the curves out.
5 – Tuck the fabric that protrudes beyond the fleece lined piece inside. Sew a line of top stitches 5mm from the edge to hold the fabric closed
6 – Sew the curved detail lines onto each wing. I sewed mine freehand but you could use a disappearing ink fabric pen to draw guidelines. To get neat ends on each line I took the outer thread through to the back with a hand sewing needle and tied the threads out of sight instead of doing reverse stitches.
7 – Pin the wings onto the back of your unicorn 1cm / ½” below the neck seam
8 – Hand stitch the wings onto the unicorn’s back. Ladder stitch the edge of the 1st wing from Y to Z into the unicorn’s back seam, continue along the side to the line of top stitches and sew along this line from the unicorn’s back into the underside of the wing. Continue to where you started your ladder stitch, and tie the thread off. Repeat for the second wing.
To complete your Unicorn
Check that your unicorn’s mane is even and trim if necessary. Then add some blush cheeks using blusher or a coloured pencil where the face seam curves outwards below the eyes
If you need help or would like to share photos of your completed Unicorn, come and join my Facebook group Cwtch and Bloom Makers Club HERE
Pattern Copyright Terms and Conditions
It is not permissible to make a copy of this sewing pattern except for your own use. It is not permissible to share this pattern either in person, by post or by email. It is not permissible to sell this sewing pattern or a copy of it on to another person.
It is permissible to sell an item that you have made from this pattern in small quantities – for example as keepsake bears clothing and soft toy accessories to sell through your in-person or online shop, or at craft fairs. Please include the information that your items are made with a pattern from CwtchAndBloom.com in online descriptions, and on social media please tag me at @cwtch.and.bloom. It is permissible to add or remove a limited number of features to this pattern, please then state in the description that your item is made with a pattern from Cwtch And Bloom with added / altered etc. If you have any queries regarding this, please email me at firstname.lastname@example.org